48 States: Day 18 & 19, Lake Geneva Wisconsin

Another rough day, but sometimes you just  gotta make time. Wasn’t gonna get any better.

Woke up at 5, checked the NWS alerts and they added gale & wind warnings for Green Bay with 50 to 60 mph gusts starting at 10 AM through 4 PM.

My original plan was to wait for the overnight rain to end around 8 or 9 AM, then head out.

With the wind warning that plan was out, I needed to boogie to beat the worst of it. I headed into the rain at 6 AM while it was still dark, luckily the yoopers are not early morning folk so there wasn’t much traffic.

And it rained and rained with gusty 20+ mph winds off the lake.. until exactly 8 AM and then it pretty much stopped.

The wind, however, was relentless and continued the whole way. It was, indeed worse around the Green Bay area, but it was windy and gusting the whole time.

I’m not sure what to say about the scenery as I was mostly concentrating on riding. Although upper Wisconsin mostly smells like cow poo.

There’s another big system moving through tonight & sunday, so I’m staying put in Lake Geneva until that passes (why Lake Geneva? I don’t know – I wanted to stay some where decent but not crazy expensive and not by a freeway or in a big city. This hotel is on the “cheap” end of Lake Geneva so it isn’t quite as expensive.)

Fingers crossed for Monday – I’m running out of states to go to, so my directional options are limited.

Audio book: None. Was too busy in the rain and wind!

48 States: Day 17, Manistique Michigan

Had to book it today into the U.P. – some serious gusty wind was on the way, and the Mackinac Bridge is pretty sketchy in high winds (you can pay someone to drive your car across if you aren’t comfortable!)

It’s extra sketchy since usually there’s a paved lane and then a metal grate (aka “cheesegrater”) lane.. but it is under construction, so it is down to a single lane each way and the only choice is the metal.

I’ve ridden lots of metal grate bridges before, especially up in Alaska.. but not 5 mile long ones in gusty wind.

So I got up early and tried to get there before noon. The winds were just starting to kick up when I got onto the bridge, it was not super fun. The metal grate part is pretty worn out and wiggly so you just gotta let things wander around. I would not want to try it in 50 mph gusts.

Since I got across early, I went and had breakfast: Mackinac Whitefish cake benedict. It was pretty good. Then I popped into a random local barbershop and got my crazy man hair and beard trimmed down. It is a tourist area so everybody is friendly and casual.

By this time the winds had really kicked up and it was a semi-sideways ride up to the hotel an hour or so away. Tomorrow might be interesting, as part of wisconsin is also calling for crazy wind gusts around the time I’m rolling through.

Audio book: Return of the King. The ring is destroyed! Still 8 hours of endings left.

48 States: Day 16, Roseville Michigan

Well this was only 90 miles as the crow flies, so my original plan was to do a 6 hour loop around the lake then meet up with a buddy for dinner.

Until I woke up and it was 26 degrees outside (forecast was a low of 41!)

So I kept making the loop shorter and shorter until the temperature got up to 40. I did 200 miles with a mixture of slab & country roads.

Both were pretty much equally dull, but at least there were no 20 mph cross winds today. There were horse & buggy warning signs around, but I didn’t see any.

Tomorrow starts the rain dodging and hopefully it works out. Up to “da U.P.” tomorrow (looks dry) and then down to Wisconsin (looks damp) and probably 2 nights there (sunday looks VERY wet.)

Then I’m hoping for 3 or 4 days of decent weather to knock out the remaining plains states without tornados or hail or 50 mph wind.

Audio book: Return of the King, I did get to the best chapter: Ride of the Rohirrim. Followed by the most boring, the hands of the king are healing blahblahblah.

48 States: Day 15, Lansing Michigan

Weather forecast continues to change around, so I made a game time decision to go into MI instead of bypassing it. Plus I have 2 different friends I can visit, so that works out ok too!

Another thought is to continue north over the upper peninsula (aka “the U.P.”) and then go down through wisconsin. To that end, I looped over to Indiana today to cross that off.

So I turned a 180 mile ride into 6.5 hours and 320 miles by taking all state/county highways. Maybe 45 miles of interstate, it was consistently cold the whole way, never varying much from 41-42 degrees with a few sprinkles. The overnight rain was pretty much gone by the time I rolled out.

I did pass through “Hicksville Ohio” which I felt was very important.

Most of the Ohio roads and almost into Indiana were pretty much barren farm land, with a few lakes and canals here and there. But that upper right corner of Indiana was actually pretty nice – lots of rolling hills and even a few turns.

My path also took me through Lakeview, OH.. they had a tornado back in March.. wow was that crazy destruction. I cannot even imagine. It’s laid bare straight from the highway. Even large steel framed structures were mangled.

Tomorrow is technically another short hop “as the crow flies” – so I will loop north and ride around lake Huron to navigate to the other side of detroit via the back roads.

After that I’ll decide if I’m doing the U.P. or back down to Illinois.

48 States: Day 14, Columbus Ohio

Not much to write about, the forecast was for 20 mph winds and 50 mph gusts so I just booked it. Plus Garmin really really wanted me to take I80 no matter how I tried to route around it. I accepted my fate after the nice 1 hour or so finding my way out of the national park area.

The rest was windy and sucky but at least fairly light traffic.

Tomorrow I will pop up into Michigan and then start heading toward Wisconsin.

The weather report continues to be garbage past Thursday night, so I’m still not sure what I’m doing past that.

Audio book: Return of the King. At least there isn’t much poetry/songs/etc.

48 States: Day 13, Kane Pennsylvania

Sometimes I literally just pick a spot on the map and then decide to stay there. In this case I wanted to be in Columbus the next day, so I just divided the miles in 2 between Saratoga Springs and Columbus. The middle was Kane, PA. So I’m staying in some odd little motor-hotel next to the Texas Hot Lunch restaurant.

The route today was another (mostly) back road route through the Allegany national forest and along the now-standard set of rivers & lakes. This whole stretch is all summer camp towns – cabins, campgrounds, etc. It must be quite a thing during peak season.

The terrain was not as interesting as vermont/new hampshire, but it was pretty decent and not as cold. Got pretty windy coming into PA. I’ve been riding along the edge of various weather systems this whole trip, so probably toodling along whatever front came down. Took about 6.5 hours again to wind my way through all the little cities. Once I got to PA, there was once again a ton of mowing. Definitely feels more spring-like down here than in the NE which still felt locked in winter.

Some pre-frontal rain going to fall Tuesday night, but I think I’ll dodge it for riding tomorrow. This weekend however is looking pretty grim, I might get stranded a few days in wisconson to wait it out.

48 States: Day 12, Saratoga Springs New York

Left late today (8:30ish) to hopefully avoid any ice issues up on the “passes” (if you can call 2900 feet a “pass”)

Since this was a fairly short jaunt (~300ish miles) I planned a route of all backroads, no interstates.

I needed a palate cleanser after 2 rough days.

The route wound its way through the White Mountains and Green Mountains/Finger Lakes.

In fact there were a ton of rivers, streams and lakes the whole way. It was very pretty and a relief to be off the highway for a while. This route took 6.5 hours vs. 4 hours if I had taken the highway.

The passes still had quite a bit of snow and it was breezy making for a rather brisk ride, but with the new base layers and all my electrics going it was fairly comfortable. And NOT raining.

The typical low new england speed limits were a problem, I tried to behave as much as possible. Amusingly this route took me right through Dartmouth college.. like.. right around the central square. It looks expensive.

Not really riding related but somewhat amusing: When I looked for a hotel in Saratoga Springs near downtown (where all the food is) – there were none in my 2 loyalty programs (Choice & Wyndham) – so I used one of those sketchy “discount” booking sites to get a deal on a Hampton Inn.

Now EVERY travel place says “never use those sketchy sites!” – but I figured $50 is $50.. so I called the hotel before I left to verify my reservation was good – and the hotel confirmed it was.

So I arrive today and…. “There are no rooms available of the type you reserved, and no other rooms available.”

ooooops.

Luckily the manager hopped in and ended up upgrading me to a huge suite for no additional cost.

So amusingly this is likely the fanciest hotel room I will stay in during this trip.

Tomorrow I will head to the Allegany national forest in Pennsylvania. Looks like another chilly (but dry) day.

Audio book: NONE! I didn’t need any today. Although I did wrap up the last of Twin Towers in the hotel room and will start Return of the King next.

48 States: Day 10 & 11, still Portland Maine

Unfortunately the weather forecasts got worse and didn’t align with my stomach issues, so I stayed in Maine for an extra day. The hotel is convenient to restaurants and shops and Day 11 was looking like another cold and rainy day.

Did laundry, went to REI (fail, they are also in spring mode), grocery store, etc.

I can ride in the cold and the rain.. but forcing myself to LEAVE when it is cold and rainy is tough when the next day is forecast to be dry.

Canada is out due to the colder & wetter forecast, so I’ll start heading west. This was always the gamble with the April departure, leaving later would mean risking crazy high temps and humidity in the southwest & south, but risking cold & rain in the NE. Win some, lose some.

Tomorrow I want to ride through the White Mountain & Green Mountain national forests and doing that in icy and wet would have been no fun.

Stomach seems to have improved and I was able to consume a lobster roll, a critical part of visiting Maine. I actually got the “lobster roll flight” consisting of 3 different varieties: plain+melted butter, coleslaw+melted butter and traditional Maine. Yes, they were all delicious. And so far no untoward noises from my guts.

Maine definitely feels more like Canada than the US (sorry if that is offensive to mainers?)

The rest of today will be dull since it is raining and I’ve done most of my chores. I’ll probably spend an hour arguing with my Garmin to route me where I want to go and that’s about it.

48 States: Day 9, Portland Maine

Short update because I’m cold and have some stomach bug and haven’t ate in quite a while.

Rode 60 miles to the motorcycle dealer and had them put on new tires, they kindly squeezed me into the schedule and wrapped it up around 11.

Then I went to a Bass Pro shop to pick up some warmer layers. I left my warm stuff at home since I didn’t think I’d be spending much time in the cold/wet. My electric heated gear is good down to about 45 with my unlined cordura, but it is borderline for all day riding. A fluffy fleece layer on top and I”m good down into the 20s.

Unfortunately, they had swapped out all their winter stuff already for spring, so there wasn’t much to pick from. I grabbed a couple thermal base layers and hopefully that’ll help.

Next I headed to Vermont and it immediately started raining. And never stopped. 300ish miles in 38-42F with rain was pretty rough. Maybe I’m getting too old for this? It is making me rethink the canada idea. This also continues my 100% track record of visiting New England when the weather is terrible. I must have been here at least a dozen times. Always terrible.

I’m taking an extra day in Portland Maine to see if my guts come around and decide where to head next.. after my brain warms up again.

48 States: Day 8, Providence Rhode Island

Today was pretty miserable and I’ll skip the details. But there were no tickets and no crashes and I made it to Rhode Island so I’ll leave it at that.

Since I’ve been making good time, I’ve been noodling on the idea of going into Canada. There seems to be a decent weather window (excluding some rain on Friday) to try to make that work.

I’m thinking I’ll go to Halifax, then come back over to Montreal and then cut back down into NY or something.

This is either a very good idea or a very terrible idea.

Also this made me decide to replace my tires early. They PROBABLY would make it back and forth to Halifax.. but I’m not sure I want to count on being able to find tires in Canada. Seems more like snow mobiles and side-by-sides.

I called about 10 motorcycle shops and found some place that’ll put some tires on tomorrow morning, and then I’ll hit an outdoor store for some warmer base layers and head north.

Audio book: Twin Towers still but I barely listened to much because the riding was so hectic.